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Reflections on Life post Lockdown at MFW


ETRO presenting its Men’s Spring Summer 2021 and Women’s Resort 2021 collections.


“We are finally back together, in the garden of this iconic hotel, in the heart of Milan’s Montenapoleone district. We want to highlight that we are a family, that Etro is a family living in a world of joie de vivre, colour and positivity. This season, we want to bring to the stage real clothes for real people, discovering a new authenticity. Just what we like, what we think is absolutely relevant, what makes us feel good. Nothing more than this,” said Kean and Veronica Etro.


With a relaxed atmosphere and a soundtrack that paid homage to late Ennio Morricone, both the menswear and womenswear collections felt deeply interconnected and injected with the same attitude. Iconic pieces have now been revamped: stripes, Madras checks and the unmissable Paisley motif give a distinctive attitude to shirts, deconstructed suits and feminine maxi dresses. Ties, stolen from a vintage archive, complement the sartorial separates exuding carefree elegance, while jacquard cardigans cinched at the waist with embroidered belts are worn with plissé skirts.


Inspired by rich upholstery, fabrics showing flowers and wild animals are juxtaposed to patchworks with a graphic appeal, while tonal looks in solid colours have a sporty-chic vibe and, in keeping with the brand’s continuous commitment to sustainability, ETRO employed eco-friendly fabrics, as well as manipulating archival textiles for an intriguing upcycling process.


The spirit of Santoni is rooted in Le Marche, a beautiful Italian region in central Italy. This season, the brand focused on colour - as colour is an intrinsic part of Santoni's soul. Through the perfection of his icons, Santoni introduced us to their territory. Nerofumo, Lava, Valadier, Notturno, Adriatico, Sirolo, Guado, Terra Bruciata, Olivo, Quercia, Urbino, Fabriano, Arancio, are some of the shades that create an emotional visual narrative of the Santoni territory, this season.


This season the collection is presented to the public in digital form through the emotional video named 'ORIGINI', shot in some of the most beautiful scenarios of Le Marche: from Riviera del Conero, Marmitte dei Giganti (in particular way at a small canyon of the Metauro River), the Marche Hills and the Sibillini Mountains. The film other than presenting the latest SS21 men's collection also aims at inviting the public into the land of origin of the brand, showcasing its most authentic and primordial inspiration.


Refined calf, soft suede and velvety nabuk characterized the materic palette, standing out as the perfect choice of the modern gentleman.


For this season, Italian designer Fabio Quaranta presented IPERURANIA, an interdisciplinary project in which fashion, art, design and music come together in a new imaginary world that defies the canons and habits with which fashion itself is coded.


The project embodies different aspects of Quaranta’s work including research, experiments and working with others that, combined with materials, signs, symbols, traditions, styles and suggestions, shows a type of fashion that goes beyond pure concepts of design, seasonality and gender.


The collection revolves around an idea of a uniform and its features of wearability and recognizability. The items are interchangeable in their shapes: long and short jackets, vests, a five-pocket trouser and an elastic waistband trouser. Fabrics vary from cotton poplin to cotton rip-stop and technical tweed for a colour palette that includes yellows, ochre, tobacco and beiges. Last but not least, it’s the headpieces, signed by Luca Trevisani and Luca Vitone and resembling Bedouin tagelmusts.


Returning to this season, was Dorian Tarantini’s M1992, whom, in a concise collection, literally celebrated the social and dress-codes imposed by confinement. Who says we can’t keep dressing like quarantine?


Focusing primarily on shirts and t-shirts, Tarantini used a series of prints and statements to explore the mental setbacks people faced during the lockdown - delivering a clever social commentary on the messages conveyed by the web. Taking inspiration from the world of bots, the reality of fake news and brainwashing, wavy font slogans, were a witty insta-provocation to the world out there.


Garments were offered both in mens and women’s versions, favouring a 90s inspired internet-palette of fluo colours such as lime greens, light blues and optical whites. In contrast, these raver inspired looks were paired with tailored trousers, in grey, navy and burgundy, and finished off with polished loafers.


More fashion displays, welcome to attend the CHIC Shanghai.


Source: NOWFASHION BY Alice Ierace and Elisa Carassai

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